Article of jewelry



Nov. 11,1941. L. s. BURRI ARTICLE OF JEWELRY Filed Dec. 3, 1940 I INVENTORf Jig, 1. 2- E BY% 1 6'? )M {J ATTORNEYS.

Patented Nov. 11, 1941 UNITED STATES 6 Claims.

This invention relates to jewelry for personal adornment or other decorative purposes; and more specifically to incrustations of semi-precious (including crystal or the like) or precious stones of relatively large size with contrasting precious or semi-precious stones of relatively smaller size. The contrast between the relatively large stones and the smaller stones may be a contrast only in size, cut and shape, as well as a contrast in kind and/or color.

Heretofore in combining relatively large and smaller stones in jewelry, it has been customary to do so by setting the respective stones in metal, and incrustations of relatively large stones by small stones has necessitated setting the smaller. stones in a metallic setting, which metallic setting is then secured to the larger stone, as by inserting the metallic setting within a recess in the larger stone. detracts from the beauty of the larger stone but is especially cumbersome and undesirable when the incrustations are of a complex design.

I have devised a means whereby incrustations of relatively large stones by contrasting small.

stones may be made without resort to setting the stones in metal and yet holding the smaller stones securely in place within the larger stone.

The invention consists in the novel features, arrangements, and combination of parts embodied by way of example in the article hereinafter described as illustrating the present pre-- fered forms of the invention, and the invention will be more particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

Further objects and advantages of the invention will more fully appear from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, which show by way of example, the preferred embodiment of the invention.

Referring to the drawing:

the invention;

Fi 2 shows a side elevation of the article illustrated in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a cross section taken at 3-3 of Fig. 2;.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged segmental section taken at 44 of Fig. 1, showing a detail of the setting of the smaller stones directly in the larger stone;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged segmental section illustrating further details of the article illustrated in the preceding figures; and

Fig. 6 is an enlarged segmental cross section of a modified formof setting.

Referring to the drawing and more particularly ot Fig. 1: l' is a stone of relatively large size, in the present embodiment a sapphire, which is incrusted with a plurality of relatively smaller stones 2, which in the present embodiment are diamonds; and suitable metallic armament, such as gold or platinum, is designated as 3. In the Such metalic setting not only Fig. 1 shows a plan view of one embodiment of present embodiment shown, the large stone l is cut in the style generally designated cabochon, and the specific form of the embodiment is eggshaped. The smaller stones 2 are set directly in the larger stone. I in the following manner (referring to Figs. 3, 4 and 5). Continuous grooves such as 4 are cut into the stone l for receivingthe body of the smaller stones 2. The grooves 4 are provided with oppositely disposed guideways such as 5, which in the present embodiment are V-shaped in cross section, extending lengthwise of the groove, and the edges of the groove adjacent the guideways 5 are preferably beveled as at 6. The formation of the undercut side walls of the groove providing the guideways 5 and the shape of the small stones 2 are such that the stones fit snugly in the guideways but with sufiicient clearance to permit them to beslid longitudinally of the groove 4... In setting the smaller stones in the larger one the successive stones of a series are individually inserted in an end of the groove such as at I and are slid toward the otherv end. In the present embodiment the stones are slid into the outwardly radiating grooves from. the outer end of each groove toward the common center 8 (Fig. l) and the innermost stone in each of the six grooves is preferably cut to a 60 angle, so that when the central stone of each groove is placed into. position they meet at the central zone 8'. To facilitate this, these centrallypositioned stones are preferably cut with flat sides to facilitate their being positioned to cooperative central relationship. The remaining stones of each'series are also preferably cut with fiat sides to more firmly hold them in position. For example they may be cut in the form of baguettes or emerald cut, or any other suitable configuration. The controlling requirement is that the smaller stones and guideways in which they are set in the larger stone have a cooperative relationship, such as to prevent displacement transversely of the grooves in which they are set. I

After the stones have all beenset in position, a suitable stop is secured against the open ends of the grooves to prevent thelongitudinal dis-- placement of the stones. In the present embod-i-i ment this takes the form of the armament designated in general as- 3- and which comprises prongs.

such as 9 which fit snugly into the outer ends of. the grooves. 4. In the present embodiment these prongs are formed from a band portion it). to which is preferably attached reinforcing straps. such as H.

It will be seen that the smaller stones 2 extend across the upper curved. surface of the cabochon stone 1 down to approximately the maximum diameter and that the backing or armament is:

positioned on the bottom of the larger stone;

so as to provide a stop for holding the smaller stones against displacement toward the end of the groove which terminates adjacent the zone where the incrusted top meets the armored bottom.

In Fig. 6 I have shown a slight modification of the cross section of a groove cut in a relatively large stone designated as l2 and providing underout side wall portions serving as a guideway within which the smaller stones I3 are set. This embodiment also shows a slight further modification in which the smaller stones l3 extend upwardly above the surface of the larger stone I2.

From the foregoing it willbe seen that I have provided a means of incrustation wherein a continuous series of smaller stones may be set directly in the upper or front convex surface of a larger stone with the metallic mounting or armor disposed on the back or rear portion. Furthermore, a large number of relatively small stones may be set directly in a larger stone by arranging the stones in a plurality of continuous series, with the smaller stones directly set in the larger-stone by contact therewith and with each other, thus avoiding the interposition of the usual metallic setting. The invention thus provides notonly a secure setting for the incrusted stones but a permanent and unyielding setting which does not require attention as is so often required in tightening or resetting incrusted stones where metallic settings are employed. Additionally, the

present'invention enhances the beauty of in-v crusted jewels by making it possible to contrast stones of different character without the interposition of metallic settings.

Having thus described my invention with particularity with reference to the preferred embodiment of the same, and having referred to some of the possible modifications thereof, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art after understanding my invention, that other changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, and I aim in the appended claims to cover such changes and modifications as are within the scope of the invention.

WhatI claim is:

1. In an article of jewelry, the combination of a relatively large stone incrusted with a plurality of relatively small stones, said large stone being provided with a plurality of intersecting grooves cut therein for receiving the lower body of said smaller stones and said grooves having opposing undercut side wall recesses engaging respectively cooperating portions on opposite sides of said smallerstones so as to provide retaining guideways in which said smaller stones are slidably positioned in a plurality of substantially continuous series and in which said smaller stones are held against lateral and vertical displacement, and means for anchoring said series against longitudinal displacement in said grooves.

' 2. In an article of jewelry, the combination of a relatively large stone incrusted with a plurality of rows each comprising a plurality of relatively. small stones, said large stone being provided with a plurality of retaining grooves having side walls in which are engaged cooperating interfitting portions of said small stones held thereby against lateral and vertical displacement,- and means for holding said series of said small stones against longitudinal displacement within said grooves.

. 3. An article of manufacturing comprising a relatively large cabochon provided with a continuous groove cut therein across substantially one half of the area and terminating adjacent the maximum diameter of said large stone, said groove being provided with guideways for slidably receiving a plurality of relatively smaller stones, a plurality of said smaller stones set in said groove and in direct contact with said larger stone, said guideways and said smaller stones being so constructed and arranged that said smaller stones are held against displacement in all directions transverse to said groove, and means for holding said series of smaller stones against displacement longitudinally of said guideways.

4. An article of manufacture comprising a relatively large cabochon provided with a continuous groove cut therein across the convex face of said stone with the opposite ends of said groove terminating adjacent the large diameter zone defining the juncture of the face and back of said cabochon, said groove being provided with guideways for slidably receiving a plurality of relatively smaller stones, a plurality of said smaller stones set in said groove and in direct contact with said larger stone, said guideways and said smaller stones being so constructed and arranged that saidsmaller stones are held against displacement in all directions transverse to said groove,

. and means disposed peripherally of said zone for holding said series of smaller stones against displacement longitudinally of said guideways.

5. An article of manufacture comprising a relatively large stone provided with a plurality of continuous grooves cut therein and intersecting at a focal axis of design, said grooves being provided with guideways for slidably receiving a plurality of relatively smaller stones, a plurality of said smaller stones set in a continuous series in said groove in direct contact with said larger stone and in direct contact with each other, said guideways and said smaller stones being so constructed and arranged that said smaller stones are held against displacement in all directions transverse to said groove, said small stones in respective of said grooves at the point of intersection being constructed and arranged for interfitting engagement about said axis of intersection, and means for holding said series of smaller stones against displacement longitudinally of said guideways.

6. An article of manufacture comprising a relatively large stone provided with a plurality of continuous grooves cut therein, said grooves radiating outwardly from a common axis and each open on one end, said grooves each being provided with opposed V-shaped guideways for slidably receiving a plurality of relatively smaller stones, a plurality of said smaller stones set in each of said grooves in direct contact with said larger stone, the construction and arrangement of said grooves and smaller stones being such that smaller stones positioned respectively in a plurality of said grooves extend into a central space disposed about said axis and common to said grooves, said guideways and said smaller stones being so constructed and arranged that said smaller stones are held against displacement in all directions transverse to said groove, and means disposed adjacent the open ends of said grooves and in engagement with the adjacent smaller stones, thereby serving to hold said series of smaller stones in said guideways against movement outwardly from said axis.

' LUCIEN S. BURRI. 

